European divide over protein strategy as farmers push back on biotechnological advances

A proposal by Germany and Denmark for a unified EU protein strategy has sparked controversy within Europe, highlighting a growing divide over the future of climate-friendly protein production. Backed by countries including Czechia, Estonia, Ireland, and Luxembourg, the strategy calls for a shift toward sustainable protein sources, including plant-based and fermenter-produced proteins. However, the move has drawn sharp criticism from farmers and several EU member states, which argue it threatens traditional agricultural practices.

The proposal, presented at the Agri-Council in mid-November by German Agriculture Minister Çem Özdemir and Danish Agriculture Minister Magnus Heunicke, aims to address rising global protein demand while reducing the environmental impact of food and feed production. The ministers’ joint statement highlights the need for "high-quality proteins" with reduced harm to climate and biodiversity. They argue that increasing EU-based production of sustainable proteins, including plant-derived and fermentation-based options, could alleviate the environmental footprint of Europe’s food system.

The timing of the proposal coincides with escalating tensions over national bans on biotechnological methods, such as cell-based and precision-fermented proteins, which offer alternatives to land-based agriculture. Countries like Hungary and Italy have led efforts to restrict these innovations, with Hungary’s Council Presidency actively opposing the inclusion of fermenter-made foods in EU policies.

Supporters of these bans, including Austria, France, Poland, and Spain, have pushed for stricter measures. A joint note submitted in January 2024 advocated for excluding cell-based and fermented products from the EU Novel Food authorisation process. Critics argue these technologies undermine traditional farming practices and threaten rural economies.

The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) has sought to streamline the approval of novel foods, including cell-based and fermented products, with updated guidelines set to take effect in February 2025. Farmers’ associations across Europe have reacted strongly, calling for cultured meat products to be evaluated under the same stringent criteria as pharmaceuticals and demanding a suspension of market authorisation for ethical and social reasons. EFSA Director Bernhard Url defended the authority’s focus on food safety and market authorization, stressing that regulatory changes remain within the purview of EU legislators.

Agriculture is a significant contributor to global greenhouse gas emissions, accounting for up to 17% of total emissions, according to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO). In Europe, 71% of farmland is dedicated to livestock feed, intensifying the sector’s environmental impact. Advocates for alternative proteins argue that innovative methods, including precision fermentation and photosynthetic algae, offer viable solutions to reduce emissions and conserve resources.

A European Parliament study highlights the potential of these technologies, which also include insect-based proteins and biomass derived from fungi or bacteria, to transform protein production. However, adoption remains contentious, with critics emphasizing the need to balance innovation with traditional agricultural interests.

Despite resistance, companies are pushing forward with applications for novel protein sources. French food-tech company Gourmey SAS has sought approval for its cell-based duck liver pâté, while Finland’s Enifer Oy recently applied for EFSA authorisation for its PEKILO mycoprotein ingredient. Enifer’s production process, rooted in 1970s technology, ferments food industry byproducts to create a high-protein dry powder. Initially focused on pet food and aquaculture markets, Enifer plans to expand into human food applications, leveraging faster regulatory pathways in Singapore and the USA.

Enifer’s €33 million production facility is capable of producing 3,000 tons of mycoprotein annually, showcasing the scalability of fermentation-based methods. While its PEKILO product is proven as animal feed, long-term ambitions include supplying the food industry with a sustainable protein alternative.

As debates over the EU protein strategy intensify, the divide between proponents of biotechnological innovation and defenders of traditional agriculture underscores the challenges of transforming Europe’s food system. Countries like Germany and Denmark argue that sustainable protein production is essential for meeting climate targets and addressing global food demands. Meanwhile, critics remain wary of the potential social and economic disruptions posed by these changes.

The outcome of these debates will shape not only the future of protein production in Europe but also its ability to address climate and food security challenges on a global scale.